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Electronic Boost Controller Install

Boost: the replacement for displacement. Simply increasing turbo boost over stock levels can yield decent power gains at the turn of a knob. That knob can either be on an electronic boost controller (EBC) or manual boost controller (MBC). Both types of controllers perform the same basic function: regulate the opening and closing of the wategate. An electronic boost controller will allow you to adjust boost from the comfort of the driver seat or quickly switch between multiple preset boost settings at the push of a button. Additionally, most EBCs offer features that just cannot be had with a MBC: built-in vac/boost readings, peak boost memory, warnings, scramble modes to cut boost should an overboost situation occur and gain controls to more precisely actuate the wastegate. Most EBC installs will be identical or very similar to this one as far as hard parts/connections, though setting up the head units will vary based on available features, so be sure to consult the user manual for your particular EBC prior to installation. The GReddy Profec Type-S that we will be installing here is a great controller. Using the solenoid from the more elaborate Profec B Spec II and having just three knobs ala the original Profec B (HI/LOW boost and GAIN), it offers the latest on the electronic side while making it extremely easy to dial in. * WARNING: Do not attempt to adjust boost levels without a way to monitor boost pressure (boost gauge or EBC reading if applicable)!! * It is up to YOU to determine what is a safe boost level for your turbo, engine, octane and tune. Increased boost means increased cylinder temps and an increased risk of detonation to go along with it. Some Evos have no problem knocking at stock boost, so datalog, monitor gauges, read your plugs and boost safely!

1. Prior to starting the install, have a few vacuum caps, extra vacuum hose and some spare small clamps on hand. Note to step 2
2. To get started, if required, assemble the solenoid per the instructions included with the EBC for your type of wastegate (internal or external). In our case of the Profec Type-S used on the stock internal wastegate, remove the plugs from all three ports and install the supplied barbs in the COM (common) and NO (normally open) ports (top pic). External wastegates would use the COM and NC (normally closed) ports. Also install the supplied mounting bracket. The tab should be oriented to the side opposite the barb so a bolt can actually get through it ;) (bottom pic).
3. The stock Boost Control Solenoid (BCS) is located directly under the factory airbox and can accessed by either removing the airbox (see our Air Filter install for removal) or from under the car (as shown). Since we will need access to the stock BCS, wastegate and the turbo outlet pipe for this install, we find it easier to work from underneath the car. Use ramps or jack stands to safely raise the car for room to work and if your lower engine cover is still on, it will need to be removed. If you choose to work from the top of the engine bay, note that you will need to remove the airbox and more than likely the intake hose/pipe to reach the nipples on the wastegate and turbo outlet pipe.
4. Locate and remove the vacuum hose connections (circled) from the wastegate and the turbo outlet pipe. Long neck pliers will be your friend here...the front motor mount and the radiator hose can make reaching them a little difficult. Both of these connections stem from one hose on the BCS. A TEE connects the wastegate and turbo outlet pipe to the BCS. TECH TIP: the spring clamp on the outlet pipe can be a pain to push back over the bead on the barb. If there is room on the barb below the hose, you can pull the clamp down, remove the hose and then remove the clamp afterwards. Additionally, you can simply compress the spring clamp and pull the hose to slide them off at the same time. Whichever way you chose, it is a good idea to spin the hose over the barb to unseat it first.
5. The other hose from the BCS (white dashed lines) runs to the bottom of the intake hose/pipe (top pic, circled). Remove this connection at the intake hose/pipe. Note to step 6
6. With the hose from the BCS removed, use a vacuum cap (not supplied) to close off the barb (bottom).
7. At this time, both vacuum hose connections should only be connected to the BCS (top). Remove them both from the BSC and store them in a clean location should you ever need them again. With the vacuum lines removed from the BCS, use some more vacuum caps to close off both barbs on it to prevent dust/moisture from entering (bottom). Note to step 8
8. TECH TIP: the BCS is rather easily removed by removing the 10mm nut holding it to the bracket and unplugging the electrical harness. This will make it much easier to remove the vacuum hoses and cap it off. IMPORTANT: even though the BCS will not be used to control the wastegate after this install, it must remain connected to the electrical harness to avoid a CEL. If you remove the BCS to take the hoses off, do not forget to remount it and connect the harness!
9. If this location is good enough for the stock BCS, it's good enough for us. Using the stud on the back of the BCS and its 10mm bolt, we mounted the GReddy solenoid right to it. If you have removed the factory airbox bracket for an aftermarket intake or air filter, you will need to find an alternate mounting location that is least likely to get wet or extremely hot. The harness from the GReddy solenoid can then be routed topside with just enough slack to reach the connection next to the airbox.
10. Using the supplied reinforced vacuum hose (the "bumpy" one), connect the COM port of the solenoid to the wastegate and the NO port to the turbo outlet pipe (GReddy diagram, top pic. Actual connections, middle pic). Note to step 11
11. NOTE 1: with the solenoid mounted as ours is, there is just enough of the reinforced hose to make both connections while running the hose along the bottom side of the intake hose/pipe like the stock hoses did (bottom pic). Unfortunately, we left ourselves an extra inch on the first connection (wastegate) and that made the remainder of the hose one inch too short to make the connection to the outlet pipe without being a little tight, so we had to dip into our own stash of vacuum hose to complete the job. Note to step 12
12. NOTE 2: the reinforced vacuum hose supplied by GReddy is just a bit too large ID for the barbs on the stock wastegate and outlet pipe. Their supplied spring clamps just don't cut it to make them a solid connection, so we opted to use some worm drive clamps to make sure there is a tight seal (middle pic). We then used the supplied spring clamps as extra insurance on the connections to the solenoid.
13. With the solenoid mounted and vacuum hoses securely connected to the turbo outlet pipe and wastegate, it's time to move topside. As shown in the GReddy diagram (top), the supplied TEE should be used to tap the remaining supplied vacuum hose (non-reinforced) to an intake manifold source...in this case the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator (FPR). Note to step 14
14. Since we already had a TEE installed on that hose for our electornic boost gauge MAP sensor, we swapped it out with a dual outlet TEE (available at any auto parts store) to add a second connection to the same source (middle pic). This made for a cleaner install than with two separate TEEs, as well as fewer connections for potential leaks. TECH TIP: if you already have a vacuum hose running inside the cabin for a mechanical boost gauge, you can TEE into that inside the cabin and save yourself the trouble of running another vacuum hose inside for the EBC head unit. Don't forget to tie strap all vacuum connections so they don't blow off under boost!
15. Connect the harness to the solenoid lead just to the side of the airbox (top). The harness is then routed inside the cabin. We used the same stock hole in the firewall on the passenger side of the engine bay that we ran the vacuum hose through (bottom). Note to step 16
16. NOTE: running the solenoid harness across to the passenger side will only leave enough length to mount the head unit in the glovebox. If you wish to mount the EBC head unit on the driver side or in the center console, an access point on the driver side of the firewall should be used.
17. Once the vacuum hose and solenoid harness are inside the cabin and routed to the head unit location, the end is near!
18. To connect the power harness, the red wire should be connected to a switched igntion wire (+12V with key on). In our install, since we have a switched wire already tapped for the gauge control unit behind the radio location, we opted to simply tap it (orange wire in the foreground). You can tap it directly at the fuse panel or to a fused wire that is hot with the key on, such as the switched radio wire. Connect the black wire directly to chassis ground (eyelet connector in the background).
19. Don't forget to install the vacuum filter inline before the head unit making sure the hex side is facing away from the head unit (bottom pic). Plug the power and solenoid harnesses into the head unit and then connect the vacuum hose.
20. Plug the power connector harness to the head unit and turn the key on. If everything went well, the unit will turn on and off with the key. Button up the interior, loom all wiring and tie strap all vacuum hose connections (including the vacuum filter).
21. Read through your EBC manual and setup any initial parameters, such as warning limits, scramble modes, etc. if applicable. Most manuals will offer initial settings that will be safe to start with. For the first test drive, we recommend starting with the lowest possible boost settings and then adjust the level higher in small increments until you reach close stock boost levels (17-19psi). Make an adjustment on the EBC and then test the boost level in 2nd or 3rd gear. DO NOT adjust the boost level while driving and certainly not while running WOT! Always be ready to let off in case of an overboost situation. With the max boost set to close to stock levels, you can begin to adjust any parameters, such as GAIN, to achieve the most solid boost possible (ie. no spike and/or little-to-no taper). Follow the instructions in your user's manual for your specific EBC. Note that adjusting any gains can and will alter boost levels +/- a few PSI (usually when reaching full boost), which is why it should be set at stock or slightly lower boost levels prior to making GAIN adjustments. Once the boost is as solid as it can get, then go back adjust max boost to your desired level. Happy boosting!

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