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AMS FMIC Install

The stock Evo 8 FMIC can become more and more of a restriction over the 325-350 wheel horsepower area. If you are at that level, or plan to be soon, a higher flowing FMIC should be on you list of mods. The Automotosports (AMS) FMIC upgrade is the choice of many for Evo front mount upgrades and we will be installing one here...

1. We will begin by removing the entire splash guard from the bottom of the car. Raising the car on jack stands, ramps, or a lift will make this a lot easier. There are so many poppet style fasteners holding the splash guard on, we lost count! Remove the middle panel first (it also has three (3) screws) and then work your way around until the splash guard is completely off. Due to the added height of this new FMIC, the splashguard will not go back on the car unless you want to cut it to fit around the core, so put it in a safe place and pack all of your fasteners in a baggie and store them with it.
2. With the splash guard off, move to the fender wells and remove the two (2) poppet-style fasteners on the front near the fender. TECH TIP: If you are working on a jack, lift or the ground, turning the front wheels will give you more room to remove the Phillips head screw from the middle. If you are on ramps or a drive-on lift, you should just barely be able to get a stubby Philips on them with the tires on the car and facing straight ahead.
3. Also inside the fender wells, remove the 10mm bolt at the corner where the front cover meets the fender. While you are there, pull the edge of the wheel splashguard outside the front cover. Repeat for both sides.
4. Remove the two (2) 10mm bolts at each corner of the middle opening in the front cover. Note to step 5
5. If you have a front license plate on your Evo, remove the plate and then you may access the driver side 10mm bolt through the outlined hole in the license plate holder (bottom pic).
6. Pull the side of the front cover DOWN. Each side has a snap that holds it in place to the fender. Repeat this for both sides of the front cover.
7. Remove one or both of the fasteners that hold the brace between the radiator support and front cover.
8. Before removing the front cover, the supply hose for the IC sprayer nozzles needs to be disconnected. Disconnect one side of the blue connector circled in the picture to allow the hose to come out with the cover.
9. Remove the (2) 10mm bolts and (2) fasteners (pull the middle out first and then pull out the whole fastener). If everything is done properly, these should be the last things holding the front cover to the car. It is unlikely that it will simply fall off, but either have an extra hand hold the cover or press against with your knee when you remove the last bolt/fasterner. The last thing you want is your front end falling on the ground and getting scratched up :)
10. Remove the (4) 12mm bolts (2 on each side) from the bumper (top pic). Note to step 11
11. Mitsu was nice enough to include a hanger on the bumper, which makes this a one-person job (bottom pic). With the bolts removed, the bumper hangs on these tabs (under each headlight) so it will not fall or bang your FMIC. This is particularly handy if/when you reinstall your bumper. Trying to line up the bolt holes and hold the bumper up with one hand is a pain ;)
12. Loosen the (4) clamps (10mm bolts) holding the factory hoses to the stock FMIC and IC piping (top pic). Note to step 13
13. You may be able to work the connectors off without having to unbolt the IC pipe brackets, but unbolting the IC pipes from the frame will give you a little more room to work. The passenger side IC pipe is held in place with (2) 12mm bolts (bottom pic, left), while the driver side is held with (1) 12mm bolt (bottom pic, right).
14. After the IC pipes have been disconnected from the stock FMIC, unbolt the (2) 12mm bolts from the lower brackets and the (1) 12mm nut on the top FMIC bracket. Sorry there was no actual pic of the connectors off or close-ups of the brackets/bolts :( In any event, with those bolts and nut removed, the stock FMIC should come right out.
15. Alright, now grab that new AMS FMIC and hang the top bracket on the bolt that the stock FMIC top bracket just came off of (top pic). Likewise, bolt the lower brackets of the AMS FMIC to the locations of the stock FMIC lower brackets using the factory bolts (middle pic). Note to step 16
16. NOTE: Prior to bolting the new FMIC on, you may wish to paint the top of the core and/or bracket semi-gloss or flat black like the stock FMIC. We would recommend at least painting the top bracket from the edge of the core to the top of the bracket (don't forget the sides). Note to step 17
17. While we personally don't mind looking at the top of the core through the openings in the front cover, the aluminum bracket does stick out against the black background. Though you don't see it well in the bottom pic, in day light, there is no missing the aluminum bracket when unpainted. You can see how bright it is unpainted compared to the painted, and the unpainted pic is a lot darker to begin with.
18. Reconnect the IC pipes to the new FMIC using the factory hoses and clamps. Make sure that the clamps are behind the rolled edges on the FMIC and IC pipes. Don't get too crazy when tightening the clamps, 9 in-lbs. If you removed the IC pipe brackets from the frame in Step 10, don't forget to reconnect them!
19. Reinstall the bumper by first hanging in on the tabs shown in Step 9. As you can see in the photo, with the added thickness of the larger core, it comes awfully close to it, but there is about 1/4"-3/8" of space between them. We were hard pressed to find any published torque specs for these bolts, or any specific bolt the front cover for that matter, so we had to default to the standardized torque spec based on bolt size and grade. The (4) 12mm bumper bolts are M10 x 1.5, Grade 7 = 33 FT-LBS (+/- 6 FT-LBS).
20. Hang the front cover on, but don't forget to run the IC sprayer hose back through to the engine bay between the driver side headlight and the radiator. Reinstall all fasteners and bolts. Make sure that the alignment pins adjacent to the fastners in Step 8 plug into their respective holes. Get the top bolts in hand tight and then move to the sides and push the snaps in (Step 5) by aligning the side of the cover and pushing it straight up. Reinstall the rest of the front cover fastners and bolts. Again, defaulting to the standardized torque spec due lack of published specific torque: - 10mm bolts up top (Step 10) = M8 x 1.25, Grade 4, flange bolt = 111 IN-LBS (+/- 22 IN-LBS) - 10mm bolts in main cover opening (Step 4) = M8 x 1.25, Grade 4, standard bolt = 107 IN-LBS (+/- 17 IN-LBS) The "bolts" (more like hex head screws) inside the fender well that bolt to the sides of the front cover (Step 3), thread into a plastic receiver, so just get them "tight" without stripping the plastic ;) Reconnect your IC sprayer hose in the engine bay, reinstall your license plate and you are ready to roll!

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